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Audio: Thomas McGuane reads.
In June, Grant drove his project Mazda with the FFA sticker south, out of Montana’s spring rain squalls to Oklahoma, drinking Red Bull and Jolt Cola, grinding his teeth, with his saddle in the back seat. Each summer, he took whatever job his friend Rufus had found for him. This time it was on the Coy Blake four-township spread, but he had to meet Mr. Blake first to see if the offer was final. “You’ll get it, but you got to sit with him and let him talk,” Rufus said. “He’s a lonely old land hog with one foot in the grave. His people been here since the Indians.” Coy Blake was ninety years old, with no immediate family, but he had not relinquished an inch of his land.
Grant stood before him, holding his hat, too anxious to sit down. Mr. Blake looked him over. The first thing he said was “You don’t know anything, but at least you don’t have a big ass like the locals.” He raised one spindly arm above a spreading torso to point at the head of a longhorn steer hanging high above a dining-room table strewn with the remains of cinnamon rolls, coffee, receipts, and newspapers. Grant hadn’t eaten since he had an Egg McMuffin near Salina, Kansas, and he stared at the food. Mr. Blake said, “That’s old Chief. A long time ago, he was my lead steer. Used him for years and years. He never got mean, but he got where he just did what he felt like—walked through things, got out on the railroad track, spoiled my wife’s vegetable garden. He was monstrous big, and I had heck finding someone to kill him. This feller at Creech said, ‘Bring him over. I’ll kill him.’ When they hung him up, Chief busted the block and tackle. All them steers were red with black noses, like old Chief there.” Grant nodded nervously at these details.
Beneath the steer was a portrait of a woman, a handsome weathered face, and Mr. Blake reached his cane to it. “Susanna, married sixty years. If she left a room, I’d kill time until she was back. She was an educated woman and took me to Van Cliburn concerts in Fort Worth, the same woman who helped me hand-dig a well, shovel to shovel. I don’t know why I hang around.” Grant thought, That must mean she’s dead.
Mr. Blake was almost asleep. When he seemed to doze off for good, Grant reached for a cinnamon roll to take to the barn, but Mr. Blake said, “Don’t touch that roll, son. It’s the last one.” He was wide awake again. “Yeah, your friend Rufus showed up from Montana and didn’t know come here from sic ’em. Good enough hand now, but he was hard to train. They might have thought he was a cowboy up North, but we’re old-school down here and we found him greener than a damn gourd.” In Montana, he added, they spend half the year on a tractor raising winter feed. And Wyoming is all drunks and child molesters. Forget about the Dakotas. The women stay in bed all winter and the men do the housekeeping.
Grant walked between the house and the stall barn in the dark. The stars seemed as sharp as tips of grass touching a windowpane. Rufus’s truck with its rifle rack and its bumper sticker—“Back Off City Boy”—was parked by two stock tanks with rusted-out bottoms, a cattle oiler, and a row of protein tubs.
In the tack room, the smell of oats, manure, and leather was strong. Some of the saddles on racks clearly hadn’t been on a horse in years—Bob Crosby ropers, worn-out Price McLaughlins, and old-time slick forks. Blake had cowboys scattered out around the place in line camps, and this was a sort of saddle exchange with stubbed-out cigarettes in front of the racks where men couldn’t make up their minds. If they came across Grant and Rufus anywhere on the ranch, they walked past without seeing them.
Rufus grained his horse through the bars of its stall, pouring oats from a tin scoop into a trough. His hands were purple from mixing Kool-Aid mash for his pig traps. He spoke over his shoulder, careful not to spill the oats. Eager noses pushed from stall bars all down the corridor, mounts for other hands. There were several horses in the stalls along the far end, but Rufus said most of them were crowbait that couldn’t catch a fat man, harmless mounts for Coy’s town relatives. Rufus touched each horse on the muzzle. “Coy says we grain ’em too much. He’s tighter than the bark on a tree. His old cowboys complained that he made them steal fuel from drip tanks rather than buy it. But he keeps them around till they can hardly walk. Half them line shacks is just assisted living. Coy don’t send them to town unless it’s for memory care.”
Rufus and Grant set up old steer horns on a sawhorse where they practiced roping. Rufus caught the horns almost every time. When Grant threw and missed, Rufus said, “Don’t throw it like you’re done with it!” Grant hung his lariat on a nail in disgust, sat on the ground, and watched Rufus practice.
Grant and Rufus grew up in a census-designated community not far from where the Yellowstone empties into the Missouri, twenty miles to school and six-man football. Apart from agate hunters and dinosaur buffs, few outsiders came through. Grant’s forebears had starved out in North Dakota; Rufus’s had been here since Sterling Price dispersed his Rebel soldiers and fled to Mexico. Rufus had been the only student in their graduating class to wear a cowboy hat, though in their parents’ yearbooks all the boys wore them, as did some of the girls.
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Grant and Rufus met in kindergarten and had been best friends ever since, lovers of the outdoors, wild places, fast food, and girls. Among the still developing coeds, big busts and no hips or vice versa, Rufus appealed to the 4-H girls, while the girls who hoped to get out of town preferred Grant, in his flat-brimmed ball cap and rock-band T-shirts. Rufus went to great lengths to ride horses, borrowing them mostly, or getting bucked off ones he’d sneaked on in distant pastures. Grant thought Rufus’s bowlegs came from this horse habit, but his mother assured him that it was rickets. Grant’s father, a genial, big-chested plumber in suspenders, occasionally hired one of Rufus’s uncles, several of whom were named Lloyd and all of whom were red-lipped and pigeon-toed, but Grant was discouraged from visiting Rufus at his home, a chaos of poverty, malaise, and unforeseen childbearing.
Still, Grant ate with the Aikens from time to time, astonished at the way they seized their utensils and wiped their mouths with open hands. The first time he ate there, Rufus’s grandmother stared at him with unnerving intensity, and said, “Look what the cat drug in!” He would not soon forget an order from Rufus’s father, “Clean your plate!,” said while pointing at it as though Grant wouldn’t be able to find the plate on his own. The meat was flat and gray; the salad dressing resembled styling gel. When the family looked to him for a comment, he bleated, “Hits the spot!”
Rufus’s dad may have been a Lloyd, too, but he was called Spook for his prominent eyes, and his large wife was called Jelly. The joke in town was that Jelly had matured early, having driven a getaway car when she was only fifteen. Spook had hair growing up the back of his neck and one incisor set edgewise. Sometimes he stopped to watch the men in town play horseshoes, or confronted tourists, demanding to know where they were from. It was agreed that Spook was just another smart-ass bumpkin until, when the boys were in middle school, he was elected to the legislature and served two full terms as a renowned crackpot, in the papers all the time. The Gazette, especially, wanted to rub the town’s nose in the mess Spook made up in Helena, where he was known as Bananas. Tucked away in his disconnected patch of prairie, he was a public warmonger who published a mimeographed end-times newsletter and had a real following. He was ever faithful to Jelly. When amorously approached during his Helena days, he’d explain, “I got more than I can handle back at the house.” Still, he prided himself on his premarital conquests and, to Rufus’s mortification, would point out some aging farm wife with the words “Magic in the back seat” or “Tighter’n a bull’s butt in fly season.”
Grant’s parents were scarcely well-to-do but they managed decently, the plain food they ate was good, they mowed the lawn, painted the shutters, and washed the car. During hunting season, Grant’s mother worked the desk at the motel two nights a week, when it was full and had a “No Vacancy” sign you could see a mile down the highway. She called home late one night to ask her husband for help with some unruly hunters who were cleaning a deer in the bathtub. He went to the motel, well armed, and found the knife-wielding miscreants still skinning the deer, slung over the side of the tub, its skull atop the television and the gut pile on the floor. He forced them out to their car, where, sticky with blood, they began the long ride back to Utah. Grant and his family ate the deer, despite all the bullet holes.
Grant’s mother tried to build a wall around their small family and made no effort to include her in-laws, downtrodden railroaders from Livingston, about whom she invented scurrilous anecdotes. She told Grant that his grandfather had weevils in his hairpiece. She also obsessively tracked Rufus’s dangerous behavior as he grew, falling out of trees, losing part of a finger to fireworks, and rolling Spook’s pickup. “Your friend Rufus,” Grant’s father said, “is as doomed as a dog who chases cars.”
One evening, the summer before they started high school, Grant and Rufus set out at sundown in two inner tubes to float the big irrigation ditch all the way to town. Hidden by tall bankside grass, they drifted at a walking pace, so quietly that they were among the ducks at the moment they exploded into the air. They nearly missed a strand of barbed wire at eye level, dipping their heads as it passed over them in the dusk.
At the first ranch they slipped through there was a yard light above the haymow, so they could see old man Bror Edison, who claimed he’d invented electricity back when there were few people around to say he hadn’t, sitting with his wife, Gladys, tiny elders holding hands, drinking beer, and idly waving the bugs away. The boys were close to them as they floated past and felt something ineffable that kept them from speaking. Grant would remember that scene a year or two later when his father told him that Edison had parked his flivver on the tracks of what many still called the Great Northern, “and kissed all them doctor bills goodbye.” Edison was uncharitably criticized for parking in such a way that Gladys’s side would be struck first. “Bror was a detail man,” Grant’s father said. “He invented electricity.”
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